When it comes to pizza in New York, locals often skip chain restaurants like Domino’s or Pizza Hut in favor of smaller spots. But with rising prices and inconsistent quality, it can be hard to find a reliable place.
Centre Pizzeria & Restaurant, located on Horace Harding Expressway, is an Italian restaurant that has become a favorite among locals in Little Neck.
From Townsend Harris, students can take the Q88 or Q17 and then the Q30 to get there. The most optimal time to visit, however, is in the evening, when the restaurant’s warm atmosphere comes to light. For students, it’s a great stop after a hangout with friends or a long club meeting.
With dim lighting and plentiful greenery in decorated water bottles, the ambience feels warm and homey. The light chatter of customers and faint background music makes the space inviting. Many customers seemed to know the staff personally, cracking jokes and bringing laughter into the restaurant.
The staff warmly greeted me and offered menus along with an endless supply of free breadsticks. The breadsticks, served with a side of butter, were soft and warm, setting a strong first impression.
The Nona Salad ($13.50)
Critic Rating: 9/10
The first dish to arrive was The Nona Salad, which came with sliced chicken, combined with cucumber, chickpeas, lettuce, olives, and spinach, and surprisingly, a unique raspberry sauce. All together, the salad was very appetizing. The chicken was tender and juicy. The sauce, while foreign to me, had a tart and sweet flavor that—when combined with the chicken—gave it a tangy burst. Alongside the crunchy and refreshing vegetables, the salad was the perfect start to my meal.
Half-Cheese Half-Deluxe Small Pizza ($17.60)
Critic Rating: 8/10
Following the salad, the small half-cheese and half-deluxe pizza arrived at my table. Despite being “small,” the slices were comparable to the size of a large slice from a chain restaurant like Pizza Hut. The cheese was stretchy and felt hot and fresh, while also pairing well with the slight crunch of the crust.
The deluxe side had a wide variety of chicken, peppers, onions, and more. The sauce on both sides was just right, with the perfect balance of sweetness and slight acidity. However, the toppings were lackluster and took away from the novelty of the sauce. I recommend ordering just a cheese rather than half and half or deluxe, as rather than enhancing the flavor of the cheese and sauce, the vegetables were a bit sour and disrupted the balance of flavors.
Spaghetti Carbonara ($20.71)
Critic Rating: 6.5/10
Next was the spaghetti carbonara. Being the first pasta to arrive, I was very excited to dig in, especially after seeing the large size of the plate.
The dish was composed of long noodles, a thick and creamy sauce, small pieces of bacon, and peas and onions. The staff can remove the bacon upon request for students who do not eat it.
The first few bites brought a wave of creaminess and savory flavor; however, I found myself overwhelmed by the sauce.The noodles weren’t too thick, yet there was too much sauce, making it hard to taste the vegetables. The chewy texture of the pasta also took away from the intended crunch of the onions and peas.
It was hard to pair the spaghetti with the dishes we had already received as well, as the sauce overpowered even the distinct flavors of those dishes.
Calzone ($10.36)
Critic Rating: 7/10
Compared to the other dishes, I had expected the calzone to be more of a smaller side dish. To my surprise, upon its arrival, I was given a huge plate of cheese-stuffed baked dough. Considering the price, the portion was impressive.
I had begun to feel slightly full from all of the previous dishes, so the size of the calzone was overwhelming. To my disappointment, I had ordered a ham calzone, yet there was not a single slice of ham hidden inside the dough.
Despite this, I took a bite, appreciating its crunchy texture and pairing with the soft cheese inside. The cheese, however, became too heavy over time, especially given the large portion.
Farfalle Alla Centre ($21.75)
Critic Rating: 6.5/10
The second to last dish to arrive was the farfalle alla centre, a butterfly-shaped pasta with tomato sauce paired with green onions and small bites of chicken.
Compared to the other dishes, this plate didn’t look as appetizing, but I gave it the benefit of the doubt. Disappointingly, it didn’t taste very appetizing either.
Despite the amount of sauce that the actual pasta was drenched in, I could barely discern a flavor from the sauce itself, giving the plate an overall goopy feeling. It tasted more like a bowl of bland sauce than a pasta dish, with the occasional warm bite of farfalle as the only redeeming element.
Farfalle Pesto ($20.71)
Critic Rating: 8.5/10
The last to arrive was the farfalle pesto, a bow tie-shaped pasta topped with homemade pesto sauce.
Like the farfalle alla centre, this dish also had the same issue of having too much sauce. If you prefer lighter portions of sauce, it’s worth asking the staff to reduce it, they are very accommodating. The pesto itself, however, had a unique nutty and sweet flavor that redeemed it. Combined with the soft texture of the pasta, the pesto sauce created a flavor-rich and creamy dish.
By far, Centre Pizzeria & Restaurant may be one of the best Italian restaurants I’ve ever visited. For the humongous portions, these prices were unbelievable. I left with a full stomach, and plenty of leftovers.
The combination of generous portions, reasonable prices, and friendly staff made Centre worth the visit.
Going out with family or a large group of friends is definitely a must, or even going alone and talking with the staff is something I’d recommend. Regulars are quickly recognized by the servers, and a small conversation with them can brighten your day.
